Samay Baji in the shade of Taumadhi

Gwakhancha sits on Somla Gali, just off Taumadhi Square, where Nyatapola and Bhairabnath temples stand. Step in from the lane and you find stone paving, potted geraniums, red brick carved in the Bhaktapur style, and walls painted with black and white Newari murals.

The kitchen cooks the food of the Kathmandu Valley's Newar community: Samay Baji platters, chatamari rice crêpes, wo (bara) lentil patties, choila, kachila and yomari. Alongside it there's a full café and bar menu of espresso, lassi, momo and continental plates, for travellers who want a break between temples.